Before You
Shoot The BIG EVENT!
While I am writing this in the dog days of summer, advice on getting your camera ready for "the big event" could apply to the holiday seasons, spring flowers or fall colors...or a special birthday.
Being aware of digital
zoom is another quality factor. Unlike
optical zoom, which enlarges the photo before it reaches the camera
sensor,
digital zoom merely crops away part of the image already received, and
enlarges
what is left. Aside
from the fact that
this can be done more creatively at home or at a one-hour lab, it cuts
away
megapixels. For
example, a photo taken
with an eight megapixel camera and digitally zoomed may result in an
image with
the same resolution of a camera with
only three megapixels. Any print made from this smaller
image will not be as good as the full-sized image.
But how do you adjust all
these things? Generally
the size and
quality settings are found by pressing either a menu button or a
function
button on the back of your camera. Digital
zoom is turned
on or off with a so-called setup menu.
Your
instruction manual should give you specific directions to find
these menus.
Now lets look at a few of the
most common
control buttons
on your camera.
The little lightning bolt on or near a button cycles
through your flash
selections. Depending
on the camera, they
will include the obvious ones: on and off, plus automatic, red eye
reduction,
and a few others involve night shots or slow shutter synchronization.
While
many people tend to leave the flash set to automatic,
this uses more
battery power and sometimes results in flash being fired when a shot
taken without flash would be more flattering.
Cycle
through the choices and pay special attention to the one that looks
a bit like a no smoking symbol.
That's
the one that turns off the flash.
Try
taking some shots without flash and see if you like the results. You may have to hold the
camera a bit more
steady, but I think you'll like what you see.
One of the items of
operation that I consider critical to good photography is what I call
the
"plus/minus exposure
control." On many cameras this is represented
on or
near a button that has a small plus and a slash mark and then
a minus sign (+/-).
Depending on the camera, this feature may or may not work on the "fully
automatic decision free" mode. If
nothing new appears on your camera screen when you press the plus minus
button,
you may have to switch over to the programmed or "P" mode. This mode exposes your
pictures exactly the
same as the decision free mode, but allows a few more options to be
used.
The plus minus exposure control does exactly what it sounds like. It brightens or darkens the picture! The classic situation involves the subject being strongly lit from behind, resulting in what is known as a backlit photo. In these cases, the subject ends up silhouette. If you are in that situation, move the plus minus exposure control towards the plus side to lighten up the main subject. On the other hand, with a picture that is simply washed out looking or too bright, move the plus minus exposure control towards the minus side to darken the image. This may work particularly well with fall foliage, or any time you need more saturated color.
For
portrait work you may find
the plus minus exposure control useful if you're
attempting so-called high
key lighting that emphasizes the highlights in the photo and minimizes
the
shadows. Simply
dial up the
exposure, that is the plus side, until the tones shift to the upper
levels. On the
other hand, moving the plus minus exposure
control towards the darken side may produce a more moody photo. These adjustments may also
work to compensate
for light or dark complexions.
Another area to be
familiar with is the ISO setting.
The
ISO determines how sensitive your camera is to light.
In most cases it's OK to leave the setting on
automatic, which allows the camera to set the sensitivity anywhere from
normal
to slightly high. This
means that
outdoors there will be a sensitivity similar to that of ISO 100 film
while
indoors it may jump to 400. But
again
moving the dial off the so-called decision free setting will allow you
to
select specific ISOs, some as high as 1600, 3200 and
even 6400. There
is usually some kind of compromise of
image quality or size with these high sensitivities, but using them may
be the only way to provide you
with a shutter speed that can be handheld.
In other words, it may make a difference between a shaky
picture indoors
without flash and one that is relatively sharp.
It's
a good idea to take a few test pictures at each of these ISOs and
compare the quality.
Then you can decide
how high and ISO is acceptable for you to use.